The active ingredient in Clay Coat is SiO2 (silicon dioxide / silica / “liquid quartz”). SiO2 is one of the most abundant minerals in earth’s crust, making up more than 10% by mass. It is already present in your clay and some of the glazes you might use.

The tiny SiO2 nanoparticles in Clay Coat integrate themselves into the clay surface by molecular bonds. The particles themselves are super-hydrophobic. This forms a permanent and impermeable layer of protection for your ceramic wares. Unlike a common surface coating, these nanoparticles alter the surface rather than sit on top of it, so they will not rub off. Clay Coat will not change the look or feel of your surface.

Clay Coat can seal any fired but porous clay surface as long as it is stable and intact. This includes bisqueware, fully-fired unglazed wares, fired underglaze, and some alternatively fired pots (wood-fired, soda-fired, etc). It is not for use over non-porous surfaces such as glazed areas. Clay coat is stable from -95°F to 840°F which makes it excellent for outdoor items exposed to extreme temperatures.

Surface Prep: Begin with bisqueware or fully-fired ware. Ensure that the surface is completely free from dust, grease, and any other contaminants. If the surface has oils or grease on it, consider refiring to remove. If the surface was sanded, wash thoroughly before application. Surface must be fully intact (not chipping or flaking). Ensure that the piece is fully dried before sealant application. This can take multiple days, sometimes longer if the piece was saturated. If any water is still in the walls of the clay, it will not be able to evaporate after sealing. Apply gloves and cover arms in case of spray or splashing.

Application:

• To Dip: Submerge the piece in Clay Coat until it no longer readily absorbs the sealant. For most pieces this will be around 20 seconds. Dry off any extra sealant with a towel. Remaining Clay Coat may be poured back into its container and reused later.
• To Spray or Brush: Shake the bottle before use. Spray/brush Clay Coat over the surface until it no longer readily absorbs the sealant. If the sealant begins to bead up on the surface or gets on a glazed area, wipe it off with a paper towel. Do not allow Clay Coat to pool in any areas or you may experience discoloration from over-application. Apply only one coat.
• To Seak a Leaky Vessel: If your vessel leaks without a visible crack, the glaze likely has a defect that is allowing liquids to pass through into the clay body. This could be crazing (very fine surface cracks), crawling (glaze that has pulled away from the clay surface during firing), or pinholes (very small holes). All of these defects expose the clay body underneath and can allow liquids to seep through. Clay Coat can fix all of these issues with an alternate application method. Pour Clay Coat inside the vessel and let it sit for 10 minutes before pouring out and saving for later use. If you do not have enough Clay Coat to cover the entire inside, you can manually brush it up the sides of the vessel interior for 10 minutes instead. Wipe the inside dry with a paper towel to avoid any pooling of the sealant.

Drying/Curing: Place on a non-absorbent surface. Once dry to the touch, flip over if needed and wipe any excess drips from the bottom surface. Allow 24 hours before handling.

Store Clay Coat in a cool, dark area such as a cupboard. Use within one year of purchase.

Yes!

A little bit goes a long way, and then some! The average coverage of Clay Coat is 60Ll/m2. To put that into perspective, you would use approximately 5mL to cover the exterior of a mug, or 10mL to cover the surface of a dinner plate. More porous wares such as bisque and earthenware will require more sealant, and more vitrified pieces will require less.

8oz bottle = 237mL

4oz bottle = 118mL

Once Clay Coat has cured on a surface, it permanently fuses with it. But as with any ceramics, the longevity and durability of the surface is going to depend widely on how you treat it. If you use heavy detergents or abrasives on it then it could degrade the surface (this would be the case with glazed surfaces too, like cutlery leaving marks on plates).  Products treated with Clay Coat are hydrophobic and oleophobic, which makes them resist water, grease, acids, alkali and alcohol. This means they should never require harsh detergents or abrasives in the first place. As long as you treat the surface with care, Clay Coat will not require reapplication. If the surface of your ceramic item has chipped or gotten a deep scratch, you can reapply a spot application in the affected areas.

When you first treat your pottery with Clay Coat, liquids will roll right off the surface. After a couple uses you’ll notice that liquids don’t bead up as easily. This should be expected and it does not compromise the effectiveness of the sealed surface.

If the surface gets dirty, wash soon after use. Some substances could cause stains on the surface of your pottery treated with Clay Coat, but washing them promptly will help to avoid this. Do not use harsh detergents or abrasives on the surface. Some mild dish soap and water or a trip through the dishwasher is all that is needed to clean the surface.

Should you wish to remove Clay Coat, simply refire it above 845°F.

Clay surface didn’t seal: The surface seal will only be as successful as the application. If your surface didn’t seal, it likely 1) wasn’t free of dust or grease, 2) wasn’t fully dry, 3) wasn’t stable enough for a proper seal, 4) wasn’t covered entirely with Clay Coat, 5) Clay Coat wasn't shaken before use, 6) Clay Coat wasn’t applied evenly, or 7) Clay Coat is older than 1 year or not stored properly.

Yellow discoloration on surface of ware: This can happen if Clay Coat was applied too thick. Remember to only apply until it's no longer readily absorbed, and do not let it pool on the surface while drying. Do not apply more than one coat.